Tanning and Production
Veg Tan Hides: How to Choose the Cut, Weight, Grade and Temper
Buying a veg tan hide? Compare sides, bends, shoulders and bellies, ounce weights, tannery grades and temper, and see what drives the price.
Veg tan hides are cattle hides tanned with plant tannins and sold to leatherworkers whole, as sides, or as smaller cuts such as bends, shoulders and bellies. Before you buy one, check four things: the cut, the weight in ounces, the grade and the temper (how firm it is). Those four, more than the word "veg tan", decide whether the hide suits a belt, a holster or a soft bag.
This page is part of our guide to leather tanning and production. For how vegetable tanning works and what the leather is used for, see vegetable-tanned leather: how it is made and used. This page covers buying the hide itself.
Quick buying checklist
| Check | Why it matters | What to ask for |
|---|---|---|
| Cut | Sets size, shape and fiber density | Side, double shoulder, bend or belly |
| Weight (oz) | Sets thickness: 1 oz = 1/64 in (0.4 mm) | A range, e.g. 8-9 oz, for the project |
| Grade | Sets blemishes and usable yield, not tannage | A/B/C/D or tannery run |
| Temper | Firm or soft hand for tooling vs drape | Seller's temper or softness note |
| Finish | Natural (crust) or drum-dyed | Undyed crust for tooling and dyeing yourself |
Choose the cut
At one US veg tannery, each hide is cut into two sides before tanning. Retailers then sell sides whole or cut into smaller pieces.
Sizes are Tandy Leather's retail ranges and vary by seller. Check the measured area, which tanneries stamp on the back of each piece.
A leatherworker's rule of thumb: fibers are densest along the spine and loosen toward the belly, so cut belts as close to the spine as you can.
| Cut | Approx. size | Fiber and shape | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Whole hide | 45-50 sq ft; usually lighter weights, typically chrome or hair-on | Largest panels | Upholstery, clothing, large bags |
| Side (half hide) | 21-26 sq ft | Mixed: butt, shoulder and belly | General crafting; widely sold in veg tan |
| Double bend / bend | 22-26 / 11-15 sq ft | Tightest fiber, least stretch | Belts, straps, reins |
| Double shoulder | 11-15 sq ft | Tight but more flexible; more wrinkles near the neck | Belts and straps (good length), bags |
| Single shoulder | 7-12 sq ft | Irregular; may show stretch marks | Small projects; typically veg tan only |
| Belly | 4-7 sq ft | Looser, thinner, stretchier | Small projects, tests, linings |
Choose the weight
Veg tan is sold by weight in ounces, which really means thickness. One ounce is 1/64 in (about 0.4 mm).
Weights are usually given as a range, such as 4-5 oz, because thickness varies across a hide. For the full conversion table, see our leather weight chart.
| Weight | Thickness | Typical uses (one US veg tannery's chart) |
|---|---|---|
| 1-4 oz | 0.41-1.60 mm | Linings, purses, garments, knife sheaths |
| 8 oz | 3.18 mm (1/8 in) | Belts, saddlebags, straps, holsters |
| 10 oz | 3.96 mm | Heavy belts, gun belts, stirrup straps |
| 14-16 oz | 5.57-6.36 mm | Harness, saddle skirting, soles and heels |
Choose the grade
At Hermann Oak, a US vegetable tannery, every grade is tanned the same way. Grades differ in blemishes and usable yield.
- A or #1: very few blemishes or holes outside the prime area.
- B or #2: a few defects, no brands.
- C or #3: more defects; generally not good for plain belts.
- Tannery run: a mix aiming at a B average, ideally 25% A, 50% B and 25% C.
Yield is where grade pays. One Grade A side might give 20 belt blanks where a Grade D side gives 15. The tannery recommends A grade for handbags, chaps and other large clean panels; for sheaths, holsters and wallets, C or D may work.
As an example of how sellers list grade, one US supplier's soft veg-tan double shoulder is grade C and may have 12 in or more of waste or damage. More on grading in leather grades explained.
Check the temper and finish
Temper is how firm or soft the hide feels. Sellers describe it in their own words, so compare listings from the same seller.
One US supplier's soft veg-tan double shoulder is "considerably softer" than its other veg-tan leathers. A lab test for leather softness does exist, as a BSI-listed standard, but sellers rarely quote it.
- Soft veg tan: sold for bags, pouches and craft items that need to flex.
- Natural crust: sold for belts, tooling, straps, tags and molding.
If you plan to tool or mold, ask for a swatch and test it before buying a whole side.
Finish. "Crust" is leather tanned with no further finishing. Natural, undyed crust is what you buy to tool and dye yourself. Tannery-finished veg tan may instead be drum-dyed, fat-liquored and sprayed with waxes, as at one US veg tannery.
How long the hide took to make, and why it costs more
Veg tanning takes longer than chrome, which takes about a day. How much longer depends on the tannery:
Finished leather is priced by area and by thickness, so a heavier hide of the same leather costs more. Raw hide prices have also risen: heavy native steer hides went from about $72-80 each in early 2024 to $95-105 in early 2026. For current hide prices, see how much does a leather hide cost?.
| Tannery or source | Time |
|---|---|
| US vat tannery (Wickett & Craig) | About six weeks in all, two of them in tannin vats |
| UK oak-bark pit tannery | About 12 months |
| A retailer's general figure | 30-60 days |
How to finish a veg tan hide after you buy it
Natural veg tan is sold ready for you to tool, mold and dye.
It is not stable in water: it discolors, and if soaked and dried it shrinks and hardens. Test any dye or finish on an offcut first. Stitching and edge work are covered in our leathercraft and construction guides.
Prefer a finished jacket to a raw hide?
Leather Collection's custom leather jackets let you choose the hide (sheepskin, goatskin, cowhide, buffalo or kangaroo) and the finish. The store names the animal but does not state the tanning method, so ask if you want a specific tannage.
Related pages
- What is a tannery?
- How leather is produced
- How suede is made
- What is vegetable-tanned leather?: the short definition.
FAQ
Is vegetable tanned leather genuine leather?
Yes. It is animal hide stabilized with plant tannins. "Genuine leather" on a label is not a grade, so ask which layer you are getting.
What is a tanned cowhide?
A cattle hide that has been through tanning, so it no longer rots. Cattle hides make up about 65% of all leather.
Is vegetable tanned leather more expensive?
Its tanning takes weeks to months, against about a day for chrome. Price also depends on cut, area, weight and grade.
How to tell if leather is chrome tanned?
Undyed chrome leather is pale blue (wet blue), while raw veg tan is light brown. If in doubt, ask the seller for the tannage.
LeatherGuru Editorial Team
LeatherGuru articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.