Leather Stitching Types: How to Recognize Each One and What It Tells You

The common leather stitching types are the saddle stitch, which comes in three variants, single-needle running stitches, edge lacing, edge-to-edge joins such as the cross and baseball stitch, and the machine lockstitch. Each looks different on the front and the back, which is how you tell them apart on a finished piece.

This guide is part of our leathercraft techniques and garment construction section. Not sure which stitch, thread or tool to use? See leather stitching basics.

Leather stitch types at a glance

The saddle stitch and its three variants

A saddle stitch uses one thread with a needle at each end, so two lines of thread pass through every hole. If one thread breaks, the stitches on either side hold, which is why makers favor it for hand-sewn goods. The saddle stitch is shown step by step in how to hand-stitch leather.

Leatherworker Kyle Mitchell shows in The Three Saddle Stitches that "saddle stitch" covers three different stitches:

A parallel saddle stitch suits work where a flat line matters most. The twist is set by where the second needle enters each hole, or by casting the thread loop over the needle. In diamond-shaped holes no variant looks exactly the same front and back. If you need to repair a stitch line, identify the variant first so the repair matches.

Single-needle stitches

A running stitch goes in and out of each hole with one needle. Weaver Leather Supply finds it hard to keep tension even this way and steers learners to the saddle stitch.

The double running stitch returns along the same holes and fills the gaps, so it looks much like a saddle stitch from a distance.

Edge lacing: loop, whip and double loop

Lacing wraps lace or heavy thread over an edge instead of sewing through flat layers. Holes sit 1/16-1/8 in (1.5-3 mm) from the edge, made with a thonging chisel.

Tandy Leather calls double loop lacing more decorative than a basic whipstitch and recommends even tension and a lightly dampened lace.

Tandy Leather laces the running stitch and the whip stitch around a small piece, from measuring the lace to locking both ends. Note its lace estimate for the running stitch, about 1.5 times the distance, matches the table above.

Joining edges side by side

When two edges meet without overlapping, two stitches do the job. The cross stitch, also called the corset stitch, shows an X on the front and straight bars on the back. The baseball stitch also joins two edges and looks like the seam on a baseball, which is why it is often used as a decorative detail.

Machine stitches on leather

A sewing machine makes a lockstitch: the upper thread and the bobbin thread lock together inside the leather. On the front you see a straight line of single stitches, not the slant of a saddle stitch.

On garments, seams are flattened by topstitching or by gluing them open. Stitch size matters: one jacket maker warns that very small stitches put holes close enough to tear along the seam. Garment seams are covered in how to make a leather coat and how a leather jacket is made.

Reading a stitch line for quality

• Even spacing. Makers keep holes even by setting the first tine of the chisel in the last hole made.
• Stitches per inch. Count them; smaller stitches are generally regarded as finer work. On garments, too small can weaken the seam.
• Stitches that sit level. Hand stitches tapped with a smooth hammer sit flat and wear less.
• Consistent slant. Placing the needle the same way in every hole keeps a saddle stitch's slant even; a slant that changes along the line suggests it was not.

Seeing stitches on a made-to-order jacket

The Leather Collection custom leather jacket is made to your design: you choose the leather, finish, lining, hardware and size, and can ask for names, logos, embroidery or patches. Use the checks above, and ask which seams are sewn by hand and which by machine.

FAQ

What is the best way to join two pieces of leather together?

For overlapping layers, a saddle stitch through pre-punched holes. For edges that meet side by side, a cross or baseball stitch.

Can I sew leather with my regular sewing machine?

Light garment leather, yes, with a leather needle, a non-stick foot and a stitch length of about 3.0.

What is the best thread to sew leather with?

Tandy uses lightly waxed polyester thread and names linen and hemp as alternatives. The stitching basics guide linked above compares them.