Leathercraft and Construction
Leather Stitching: Stitches, Tools and Construction Basics
Leather stitching explained: which stitch for which job, hand saddle stitch vs machine lockstitch, thread, needles, stitches per inch and how to judge a seam.
Leather stitching joins pieces with thread through pre-punched holes, by hand or by machine. For hand-sewn goods the saddle stitch is the standard: two needles on one thread, locking at every hole. A sewing machine makes a lockstitch and needs a leather needle. Choose the stitch by the job, the thread by the leather, and judge any seam by its spacing, set and edges.
This guide sits in our leathercraft techniques and garment construction section. For the full saddle stitch with step photos, see how to hand-stitch leather.
Quick answer: which stitch for which job
More stitches, including decorative ones, are compared in common leather stitching types.
| Stitch | Needles | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Saddle stitch | Two, one thread | Seams through layers: card wallets, journal covers, holsters, sheaths, briefcases | Slower than machine sewing |
| Running stitch | One | Simple lines with one needle | Even tension is hard to keep |
| Running stitch out and back | One, returning along the line | A saddle-stitch look with one needle | Twice the passes |
| Cross stitch (corset stitch) | Two | Joining two edges side by side; wrapping an object | Thread crosses in an X on the front |
| Baseball stitch | Two | Edge-to-edge joins; decorative detail | Holes must line up exactly |
| Machine lockstitch | Machine, upper and bobbin thread | Long seams, repeat work | Needs a leather needle |
Hand stitching vs machine stitching
A saddle stitch runs two threads through every hole, so the line holds even if one thread breaks. Makers argue that a broken machine stitch can let the whole line come apart, which is why Tandy, Goldbark and Weaver all call the saddle stitch stronger or more secure. That is a maker view. We found no independent test that compares the two.
A machine lockstitch interlocks an upper thread and a bobbin thread inside the material. Hand sewing is the slower of the two; one experienced hand sewer reports about 2.5 in (6 cm) per minute.
| Column 1 | Hand saddle stitch | Machine lockstitch |
|---|---|---|
| Thread path | Two threads through every hole | Upper and bobbin thread interlock |
| If a thread breaks | Rest of the line holds | Makers say the line can come apart |
| Holes | Punched first with chisel or iron and awl | Made by the needle's cutting point |
| Speed | About 2.5 in a minute for one practised maker | Faster |
Tools for making stitch holes
Hand stitching needs holes first. Three tools do the job:
- Stitching chisel. Struck with a rawhide mallet, it punches a row of evenly spaced holes.
- Pricking iron. Marks the spacing and cuts only the surface; you open each hole with an awl.
- Awl. A metal point for marking, piercing and sewing.
A groover set about 1/8 in from the edge keeps the line straight and lets the thread sit in a channel. A wing divider marks a line without cutting. To keep spacing even, put the first tine in the last hole every time.
Thread and needles
For hand sewing, use two harness needles, one on each end of the thread. Cut 3.5 to 5 times the stitch-line length; sources disagree on the exact ratio.
For machine sewing, a leather needle has a cutting point. Sizes 70/10 to 90/14 suit thin or artificial leather, suede and vinyl; 100/16 and 110/18 handle thick leather and upholstery.
| Thread | Notes |
|---|---|
| Waxed polyester | Lightly waxed poly is Tandy's choice; trim and melt the end |
| Linen or hemp | Wrap the thread back on the needle to hold it; seal the end with a drop of glue |
| Ritza Tiger thread | Weaver's pick, sold in 0.6 mm and 0.8 mm |
Stitch size: stitches per inch
Stitch size is set by the spacing of the chisel or iron. To get stitches per inch, divide 25.4 by the spacing in millimeters: a 3 mm iron gives about 8.5 stitches per inch, per Sailrite's leatherworking glossary. Smaller stitches are generally regarded as finer work. Pick one spacing per project so every seam matches.
Construction basics: before and after the stitch
A seam is only as good as the work around it.
- Thin the edges. Skiving shaves leather where pieces overlap or fold, so the seam is not bulky.
- Glue the layers. Use leather glue on clean, dry, roughened surfaces so the layers stay put while you sew.
- Stitch. Hand or machine, as above.
- Set the stitches. Tap the line with a smooth hammer to close the holes and sink the thread.
- Finish the edges. Bevel, then burnish so the edge is smooth and will not fray.
How these steps come together in garments is covered in leather stitching: techniques and construction.
How to judge stitching on leather you buy
You can read a seam without taking it apart:
- Even spacing shows the holes were set with a chisel or iron, not by eye.
- Stitches level with the surface have been set, which cuts abrasion.
- Stitch size: count stitches in an inch; smaller is generally finer.
- Edges should be smooth and sealed, not fuzzy.
- Ask which seams are hand-sewn and which are machine-sewn. Both are legitimate; a maker should be able to say which.
Leather Collection men's leather jackets are made to order in cowhide, sheepskin, lambskin or goatskin. Use the checklist above when the jacket arrives.
FAQ
What is leather stitching called?
Hand stitching of leather is usually called saddle stitching, also hand stitching or two-needle stitching.
What is the strongest leather stitch?
Leather suppliers name the saddle stitch, because it locks at every hole and the line holds if one thread breaks. We have not seen an independent test confirming it.
Can I stitch leather with a normal sewing machine?
Many household machines take flat-shank leather needles in sizes 70/10 to 110/18. Match the needle size to the leather's thickness and test on scrap.
How difficult is it to stitch leather?
The Crucible says basic leatherwork techniques are easy to pick up, and a card wallet is a common first project. Even spacing and tension take practice.
What thread is best for leather stitching?
Waxed thread for hand sewing: polyester, linen or hemp. Poly ends can be melted; linen and hemp ends are glued.
LeatherGuru Editorial Team
LeatherGuru articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.