Leather Types and Quality
Understanding Leather Grain Types: Natural, Corrected and Embossed
Leather grains explained by how they are made: natural, tumbled, corrected and embossed grain, what lies under each texture, and how to tell full grain.
Leather grains are the patterns and layers of a hide's outer surface, and there are three basic kinds: natural grain left as it grew, corrected grain that has been sanded and re-textured, and embossed grain pressed in with heat and pressure. The grain is the hide's densest layer, so how much of it survives tells you a lot about how a piece was built. Textures such as pebble can come from the hide or be pressed in, which is why the label matters as much as the look.
This page is part of our guide to leather types, grades and quality. It covers the grain surface. For the full quality ladder from full grain to bonded, see leather grades explained.
Leather grain types at a glance
| Grain type | How it is made | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| Natural (full) grain | Whole grain layer kept, no surface removed | Pores and small scars stay visible |
| Tumbled grain | Leather finished in a natural tumbled pattern | Sold as the hide's own grain, not a pressed one |
| Naturally shrunken grain | Tanning formula shrinks the grain, as on some bison | Pattern comes from the hide itself |
| Nubuck | Grain side sanded to a short nap | Grain layer kept, surface altered |
| Corrected grain | Surface buffed or sanded, then dyed and embossed | Flaws removed for a uniform look |
| Embossed grain | Texture applied with heat and pressure | Can copy basket weave, saffiano, crocodile or ostrich |
| Coated split (bicast) | Split coated with polyurethane or vinyl, embossed to look like grain | No natural grain layer underneath |
Why the grain layer matters
A hide has a grain layer of fine, tightly packed fibers on top and a looser, more fibrous corium below. One leatherworker says full grain lasts longest because it keeps that whole dense layer. Every step that sands, splits or coats the surface changes that layer.
Only hides with few natural markings can be finished as full grain. Lower-grade hides carry more scars and growth wrinkles, mostly at the belly and neck. Correcting the grain is how tanneries use those hides for even-looking goods.
Natural grain textures
Natural grain varies by animal and finish. One leather supplier sorts what you will see into smooth (no texture), flat grain (visible but smooth to the touch) and grainy (texture you can feel), with bison among the grainiest.
- Hair cell: the follicle pattern where hair grew. Pig skin shows follicles in groups of three.
- Ostrich quill: the "goose bump" pattern from feather follicles.
- Tumbled grain: Horween's Chromexcel is sold in a natural tumbled pattern.
- Shrunken grain: a tanning formula can shrink the grain into a pebble-like surface, as on Horween's Montana Bison.
Pressed-in grain: embossing and printing
Embossing presses a pattern into leather with heat and pressure. Common patterns include basket weave, saffiano and copies of crocodile or ostrich.
Embossing is not always a shortcut. Horween embosses steer hides with a pebble pattern for NFL footballs, for grip. It also sells an embossed-and-tipped Chromexcel whose pattern, the seller says, will not pull out. What matters is what lies under the pattern: full grain, corrected grain, or a coated split.
In the US, leather embossed to look like another kind must say what it really is, for example "Top Grain Cowhide With Simulated Pigskin Grain". See the FTC Leather Guides.
Pebble grain can be either natural or pressed. Whether it is a good choice is covered in is pebble-grain leather a good choice?
How to tell if leather is full grain
Read the surface, then the edge and the label.
- Look for pores and small marks. Full grain shows pores, tiny scars and grain texture that differ across the hide.
- Compare several spots. Natural grain marks differ across the hide, while an embossed texture is pressed onto the surface with heat and pressure.
- Look at a cut edge. Bicast is a split with a polyurethane or vinyl coat on top, so look for a coating sitting on the fibers.
- Read the label. "Genuine leather" is not a grade, and often means processed split.
Finishes are not grains
Aniline, semi-aniline and nappa are sold as finishes, chosen separately from the hide. On Leather Collection custom jackets, buyers pick the hide and then a finish such as natural, nubuck, aniline, semi-aniline or nappa, each priced separately. Ask any maker which grain sits under the finish.
For the grain names on top-grain labels, see what is top-grain leather? and what is split leather?
FAQ
Is there a grain to leather?
Yes. The grain is the outer layer of the hide, made of fine, densely packed fibers, and it carries the visible surface pattern.
What are the grains of leather?
By layer: full grain, top grain, corrected grain and split, which has no grain. By texture: smooth, flat, grainy, pebble, embossed and hair cell.
What are the five grades of leather?
Full grain, top grain, split, "genuine" and bonded are the five names most labels use; leather grades explained ranks them and explains tannery grades.
What is the lowest quality of leather called?
Bonded leather: shredded scraps on a backing with 10-90% leather fiber.
LeatherGuru Editorial Team
LeatherGuru articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.