Leather Types and Quality
A Guide to Leather Types, Grades, and Quality
Types of leather sorted by animal, layer and finish: full grain to bonded, what 'grade' really means, and links to every leather quality question we answer.
The types of leather are sorted by three things: the animal the hide came from, the layer of the hide you get, and how that layer was finished. Full-grain leather keeps the whole grain layer and is usually rated the highest quality; top-grain, corrected-grain, split, "genuine" and bonded leather each remove or rebuild more of it. Quality then depends on which part of the hide was cut, how clean the hide was, and the tannage, which is why two "full-grain" jackets can differ a lot.
This hub links to every page in our leather types and quality section. Each section below gives the short answer and points to the page that covers it in full.
Leather types at a glance
| Type | What it is | Where it sits on quality |
|---|---|---|
| Full grain | Entire grain layer, no surface removed | Usually rated highest |
| Top grain | Outer grain layer, sometimes with some corium | Term is used loosely; see the top-grain pages |
| Corrected grain | Surface buffed or sanded, then dyed and embossed | Uniform look, natural surface lost |
| Nubuck | Grain side sanded to a short nap | Grain layer, altered surface |
| Split / suede | Corium left after the grain is removed; suede is napped split | Below grain leathers |
| Bicast / patent | Split with a polyurethane or vinyl coating | Coated split |
| "Genuine leather" | Not a specific grade; often processed split | Label, not a grade |
| Bonded leather | Shredded scraps on a backing, 10-90% leather fiber | Not to be sold as plain "leather" in the US |
Grain layers: full grain, top grain and split
A hide's grain is its outer layer of fine, densely packed fibers; the corium beneath is looser. Splitting machines slice a hide horizontally, and every grain name traces back to that cut.
- Understanding leather grain types: natural, corrected and embossed grain, and how to read a surface.
- What is top-grain leather? and the short answers: what top-grain leather means, is top-grain leather real leather? and is top-grain leather good quality?
- What is split leather? and split leather vs. top-grain leather
Grades and labels: what the words on the tag mean
"Grade" means two different things. Shops use it for the layer ladder above; tanneries such as Hermann Oak use it for how clean a hide is, which sets yield, not the quality of the tannage. Leather grades explained covers both.
The FTC Leather Guides say leather embossed to look like another kind must name the real kind, and bonded leather must not be sold as plain leather. The label comparisons:
Leather by animal
Cattle supply about 65% of the world's leather, sheep about 13%, goats about 11% and pigs about 10%. Different animals' leathers go to different work: kangaroo for strength at low thickness, lamb and deer for soft apparel, horse for very durable leathers.
| Question | Page |
|---|---|
| Calf or lamb for a jacket or bag? | Calfskin vs. lambskin leather |
| Is calf just young cowhide? | Calfskin vs. cowhide leather |
| Lamb or adult sheep? | Lamb leather vs. sheep leather |
| Calf or nappa? | Calf leather vs. nappa leather |
| Single-hide checks | Is deerskin leather durable?, is goat leather good quality?, is lambskin leather good quality?, is nappa leather good quality? |
Tannage, thickness and named leathers
Chrome tanning makes up about 85-90% of modern leather; vegetable tanning uses tannins from bark and leaves. Read vegetable-tanned leather: how it is made and used.
Thickness is sold in ounces, where 1 oz equals 1/64 in (0.41 mm). The leather weight chart matches weights to uses.
Some leathers are known by the tannery that makes them. Horween in Chicago, founded in 1905, makes Chromexcel and shell cordovan. See what is Horween leather?
Judging quality before you buy
- The best types of leather for different uses: which hide, layer and tannage suit each job.
- The key qualities of leather: strength, breathability, aging.
- Is pebble-grain leather a good choice?
- How to identify high-quality leather goods
For what these grades cost, see our separate guide to leather prices and value.
Seeing these hides in finished gear
To compare the hides in made-to-order jackets, Leather Collection, hand-stitches jackets to order in cowhide, sheepskin, lambskin or goatskin, and offers kangaroo on custom jackets and race suits. Cowhide feels firmer; sheepskin and lambskin feel softer.
Related guides
- For finishes, natural marks and softness, see leather finishes, textures, and natural markings.
FAQ
What are the five main types of leather?
Full grain, top grain, split (including suede), "genuine" and bonded are the five names most labels use. "Genuine" is a label rather than a defined grade.
What is the lowest quality leather?
Bonded leather, because it is shredded scraps glued to a backing, with as little as 10% leather fiber. US guides say it should not be called leather without stating its make-up.
What are the different textures of leather?
Common textures run from smooth and flat grain to grainy, pebble, embossed and hair cell; nubuck and suede are napped. Understanding leather grain types explains which are natural and which are pressed in.
LeatherGuru Editorial Team
LeatherGuru articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.