Leather Types and Quality
The Key Qualities of Leather: What Makes One Hide Better Than Another
The key qualities of leather: strength, tear resistance, flexibility, breathability, color depth and feel, and the five things that set them in a hide.
The key qualities of leather are strength, flexibility and durability, which tanning gives to raw hide. Some of these can be measured, such as tensile strength, tear strength and how well water vapor passes through. Others, such as softness, feel, gloss and color, can only be judged by eye and hand.
How much of each quality a leather has depends on five things: the animal, the tannage, the tannery's selection, where on the hide the piece was cut, and which layer it came from. This page explains each quality and what sets it. It is part of our guide to leather types, grades and quality.
Leather quality chart: the levels and what they keep
Most "levels of leather" charts rank the layer the leather was cut from. Here is that ladder, with what each level keeps and what it means for the qualities below. The full ranking, including tannery grades A to D, is in leather grades explained.
"Top grain" is used two ways: some references count full grain as a type of top grain, while many sellers mean corrected grain. See what is top-grain leather? for both.
| Level | What it is | What it means for quality |
|---|---|---|
| Full grain | Whole grain layer, nothing removed | Keeps the densest fibers; develops a patina; usually considered the highest quality |
| Top grain (corrected) | Grain surface buffed or sanded, then dyed and embossed | Even look, but part of the grain is removed |
| Split | The corium left once the grain is taken off | Looser, more fibrous layer |
| "Genuine leather" | Names no grade; often a heavily processed split | Real hide, but the label tells you little |
| Bonded | Shredded scraps bonded onto a fiber mesh; 10-90% leather fiber | Not wholly hide |
The measurable qualities
Leather testing guidelines compiled by UNIDO list the properties labs check. For shoe uppers they set limits for tensile strength, stitch tear, tearing load, water absorption, density and water vapor permeability. For garment leather they cover light fastness, rub fastness, flexing endurance, finish adhesion and tear resistance.
Strength and tear resistance
The grain holds the finest, most densely packed fibers, which is where strength and durability come from. The animal matters too: one study of tear strength found deer leather strongest, then cattle, then sheep, and sheep varied the most across a single skin.
Flexibility and handle
Tanned leather dries flexible, while raw hide dries hard. Chrome-tanned leather is more supple than vegetable-tanned. Softness also depends on fatliquoring, the step that coats the fibers to reduce friction between them.
Breathability and water
Water vapor permeability and water absorption are both on the upper-leather test list. Tannage changes how leather behaves when wet. Vegetable-tanned leather discolors in water and can shrink and harden if soaked and dried; chrome-tanned leather does not discolor or lose shape as drastically.
Color depth and finish wear
Good garment leather should be dyed deep: a cut edge should match the surface color unless a contrast is intended. Surface finishes are tested for adhesion, so a coating does not lift from the leather. Rub resistance depends on the finish: one upholstery standard asks 250 wet rubs of pigmented leather but 80 of semi-aniline.
Thickness
Thickness is sold in ounces, where 1 oz is 1/64 in (0.4 mm). A hide is rarely the same thickness all over, which is why weights are given as a range. Thicker is not always better: the right weight depends on the item. See the leather weight chart.
The qualities you judge by hand
UNIDO calls these the "hidden" qualities: softness, feel, gloss, touch and color, which are matters of personal judgement. They still matter to a buyer.
- Grain character. Full grain shows pores and small scars no two hides share.
- Texture. Grains run from smooth and flat to pebbled; some textures are natural and some are pressed in. More in understanding leather grain types.
- Patina. Full grain develops a patina over its life rather than simply wearing out. Patina differs with leather type, use and exposure.
What sets a leather's qualities
The leathercraft channel International Leather Club walks through these same five factors with real leather samples: animal, tanning process, tannery grade, cut location on the hide and layer. Note its point that one tannery's A grade can differ from another's, because tanneries grade their own runs.
Natural marks are not the same as defects. Scars and bites are part of a hide; a grain crack or peeling finish is a fault. See common leather defects and how to recognize them.
| Factor | How it changes the leather |
|---|---|
| Animal | Cattle hides make up about 65% of leather; sheep 13%, goats 11%, pigs 10%. Sheep and goat skins are the weaker skins in a Massey University study |
| Tannage | Chrome leather is more supple; vegetable-tanned leather is firmer and reacts more to water |
| Tannery selection | Grades such as A to D describe how many blemishes a hide has, not the tannage. No single industry-wide grading standard exists |
| Cut location | Fibers are tight along the spine and loose toward the belly and flanks, one leatherworker says. The belly shows looser, wrinkled grain |
| Layer | The grain is denser than the corium below it |
Which qualities matter for which item
For choosing a leather by use, see the best types of leather for different uses. For a buyer's checklist, see how to identify high-quality leather goods.
| Item | Qualities to look for | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Belt or strap | Dense fiber, cut along the back | Tight spine fibers stretch less |
| Gloves | Thin, soft, flexible skin | Store gloves use 0.8-0.9 mm lambskin and cowhide |
| Shoes | Strength and water vapor permeability | Both are on the upper-leather test list |
| Jacket | Deep dye, flexing endurance, finish adhesion | Garment requirements |
| Sofa | Rub resistance of the finish | Pigmented finishes are asked to take more rubs |
Labels: what they can and cannot tell you
In the US, the FTC Leather Guides cover products such as handbags, wallets, luggage, belts and footwear, not garments. For those products, misrepresenting the kind, grade, quality, thickness, finish or durability of leather is unfair or deceptive. Bonded leather should state its leather-fiber percentage. A label still says nothing about softness or feel, so handle the leather where you can.
Qualities in made-to-order jackets
Men's biker jackets from Leather Collection are hand-stitched to order in cowhide, sheepskin or lambskin, 0.8-1.3 mm thick depending on style, and each product page names the leather and thickness. The store does not state the grain grade or tannage of its leathers, so ask before you order.
FAQ
What are the five grades of leather?
Charts usually list full grain, top grain, split, genuine and bonded, which are layers rather than grades. Tanneries also grade hides A to D by blemishes.
What are the qualities of good leather?
Strength, flexibility and durability, plus deep color and a finish that stays on. Feel and look are judged by hand.
What is the lowest quality leather?
Bonded leather, which can contain as little as 10% leather fiber. Compare it in bonded leather vs. genuine leather.
How can you tell if leather is high quality?
Look for pores and natural marks on the surface and a dense grain band on the cut edge. Check that the color goes through the cut edge.
LeatherGuru Editorial Team
LeatherGuru articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.